Hey, with this vintage bicycle thing going on,all we gotta do is open the 3' service door to get our old pedal bike into Scooter's Garage to check the air in the tires and tighten that loose left hand mirror.No need to run the big door up and down, which always seems to make Harv nervous.Let's get on with this groovy bike thing.Next up is the most popular style of vintage bicycle there is in the hobby. The balloon tire bicycles. These can be anywere from before WW II, to the early 1960's. As with old cars, the most popular seem to be the 50's and 60's models. These things can be very sedate and plain. How ever, these bare bones models can be dolled up to garner all the thumbs up's you'll be able to wave back at. But if you can get into this with the typical gung ho Scooter attitude? Find ! Buy ! And cruise on loaded up one! Just figure the amount of work, money and time you can or want to spend getting ready to go cruising. Then go GREEN ! No OPEC fuels and you can shed some calories in process ! Besides if you and your offspring or buddy get into a drag race? You'll never get a ticket.A word here on typical prices at all levels of models. Boys bikes are typically more money than girls models.This just might be the right time to step back and do ladies first!Now, if you are not a female doing this bike thing, it would still be a good idea to read on. Because some of the info will cross over to the men's models we'll cover later. If you want the better half and/ or your daughter to ride in style? There are some very unique accessories. A ladies' model can be as loaded up as any boy's bike. Plus, they tend to be in better shape as the same boy's model. Gee. Does that mean boy's tend to tear up their toys more than girls? Wow! Who knew? Pedaling on. If you can find a skirt shield? Grab it or seriously consider that bike if it's in the condition of the level of work (or lack thereof) that you wish to partake in. I've even made an offer ($30) on a junk bike just to get the shield. Skirt shields are made of approximately 1/2" wide strips of chromed steel. They bolt on the rear fender or frame bar at the top front 1/4 of the rear wheel. With this accessory, back in the day, your skirt wouldn't get wrapped up in the rear spokes. Plus, it looks cool, even if you never ride in a dress . If you want to paint a ladies bike? PINK was big back then. Yellow works, too. Light or baby blue was hot, too. If you need to or want to these things can be rattle canned to show condition. but don't tell any one deep into the hobby. You can buy brand new white, or in some cases black,(more for boys bikes) front and rear fender mud flaps. And dual square or round chrome mirrors with reflectors on the front are a must. The mud flaps can be anything from mild to wild. I'm likin' wild ! Either buy them with the stuff I'm about to mention. Or you can go out, buy the stuff and install them easily yourself. This is an ideal job for a young child to be able to design and do his part of the dad/ mom and child bike thing.Mud flaps are screaming for red, blue,green, or amber screw-in reflectors and screw- in chrome bullets. Be sure to go to a boat supply place like West Marine or a Home Depot type store and use stainless bolts and nuts to fasten the flaps onto the bottom of the fenders. Each to his own on this installation. Some like to use the bolts, nuts, and washers in a way that the flap can swivel a little without scraping the paint off the fender. Others bolt the flap on solid so it never moves. Ladie's bikes like a different sounding or different type of horn, IF they don't already have one inside the tank. I'll cover the types of horns in the boy's/ man's models next time. Streamers tend to be made up of what we used to call "girl" colors (yep, in the days before political correctness) that match the bikes color. The same goes for the new handle bar rubber grips that everyone should buy for that exciting vintage cruiser bike. You will find at Google, online, or in books that there are many suppliers of every accessory there is for any old bike. Just go find what gets IT done for you and those you wanna' go pedaling with. Just picture this. You, the wife, the two rug rats cruisin' up to the local cruise night on these attention getting bikes. I'd bet you'll get as much attention as that numbers matching 66 Vette Coupe. (no nasty letters, please...I owned and loved a Nassau blue one myself).Well, Harv is itching to chase me on my old blue and cream Monarch. So, the door is locked and the garage is officially shut down for now.
by Scooter
scooter4422@msn.com
For more articles like these, pick up a copy of Auto Round-Up Magazine at your local newsstand, or visit www.Auto-Roundup.com today!
Wednesday, January 28, 2009
Vintage Bicycles Part 4
Harvey and I have recieved some questions about the 60's and 70's middle weight vintage bicycles. We thought we'd cover them first by popular demand. Just keep it in mind that some of the basic accessory and restoration info we throw out for these models can apply to other models of vintage bicycles.Old Scooter has a fondness for these go- getter bikes. My favorite happens to be the Schwinn Corvette.Now, we're gonna assume you have been out and about looking and trial pedaling some bikes. If you figure you either want or have a "find" in a mid weight bike? Then, let's get on to some facts and goodies that go with these cool bikes. I'll throw out the average mid- weight bike's upgrades from the older big tire bikes.Right here, we'll mention that you should check out the chain, the sprocket, the bearingsthe rims, the tires, and finally, the brakes. Consider the condition of the paint and whether or not this is a task that is up to your abilities. There will be a good number of bikes that will not require any paint work. Also seats, tires, spokes, etc. can be had all over the hobby.Middle weight bikes are lighter and faster than their older big balloon tire brothers. That basically sum sthem up in short order. The type you buy is a matter of taste price or if you un-cover a "find". Some mid-weights can be single speed just like their older larger tired bikes. My feeling on these is: if you want a single speed bike? Buy an older balloon tired wide white wall bicycle. Plus, the older ones ride better. A large number of mid-weights are 3 speed and some are even 5 speeds. These models tend to have the front and rear cable brakes. The harder to find and fix are the 2 speed axle coaster brake mid- weight bikes. These models have a unique two speed axle. I should add here also that some do feature a front cable brake set up.Harv is howling at me. OOPS. Guess I'd better get back to the newbie needed facts. A coaster brake bike is one that you just place backward pressure with a pedal to apply the brake to the rear hub. If you press hard, the rear tire will lock up. To continue the facts here. A coaster brake will work when it is wet. The mid- weight or caliper type handle bar / cable lever brakes usually are on both the front and the rear wheels. They do NOT work well in some wet conditions. It's an easy fix. Just remember to drag the brakes when biking in wet conditions before having to stop quickly.These two speed bikes also come in the older style large WWW balloon tire bikes.I owned one of the two speed big tire bikes at one time. To shift gears, you just jerked back on the pedal and it would go from either high to low or low to high gear. It had no hand shifter on the handle bar or derailleur system. The truth was that it was fun and good when it worked. But, when it didn't work, it was a mess to fix. I will check and find out if there is anyone out there who has the knowledge and parts to fix the 2 speed rear axle, and get back with you all in another article. If any of you readers have this information, please feel free to contact me through E mail or share it in Scooter's blog on the Auto-Roundup site.If you chose one of these mid weight bikes? You will be able to get almost every part that it could need as far as mechanical parts and pieces.A large number of these bikes came painted in a fingernail polish / candy apple style paint. The ones that are the most popular as nostalgia types seem to be the three speed models. The shifter is mounted on the handle bar. It's a little flat chrome badge looking piece that has a lever about 2 inches long that sticks out of it. There is a selector hole that shows the numbers 1, 2 & 3 in it. All you do is let off the pedal, or in some cases, gently pedal as you move the gear selector to whatever gear you desire. These bikes can have a narrow white, or black wall tire . Either is acceptable according to your preference.. They can also have the sought after tank mounted headlight and/or push button horn. The models without the tank usually do not command as much money. Some have rear mounted tail lights in addition to the ever present rear red reflector. Streamers were not as polular on these models as on their older brothers either. The acceptable condition of the majority of any collectable bike is to find one with as many accessories as is possible. If it doesn't have the extras, it is OK and desirable to add many of them. You probably wouldn't want to add a tank. But, the usual accessories, such as; mirrors, a horn, lights, and mud flaps come to mind. There are also a number of correct style front or rear luggage racks that add style and function to your vintage mid- weight bike. Hey guys, gals, and youngins', get out and check out any and all types of vintage bikes. Find and buy one, two or three that are at the level of restoration you want. And then make a deal . Or you can simply keep looking until you find one that needs nothing and is ready to pedal to the Seven Eleven next Saturday morning to pick-up the newspaper and a slurpee. Next time, we'll back pedal to the more nostalgic balloon tire bicycles.Harv and Scooter are outta' here. The garage is closed.
by Scooter
scooter4422@msn.com
For more articles like these, pick up a copy of Auto Round-Up Magazine at your local newsstand, or visit www.Auto-Roundup.com today!
by Scooter
scooter4422@msn.com
For more articles like these, pick up a copy of Auto Round-Up Magazine at your local newsstand, or visit www.Auto-Roundup.com today!
Wednesday, January 14, 2009
10 Things A Car Nut Should Do Over The Winter
Harvey, (the Bassett) and I live in northern Michigan. When the snow gets too deep to run our vintage rides, we hide them away in a barn or garage till spring. For those of you that live in a no snow area, it's always a good thing to take stock of the vision you have for your precious ride. I'd say this off season is the time to do some of the jobs that will insure a trouble free summer cruising season. Or maybe it's the time to bring on that new ride.Harv and I have compiled an idea or work list of subjects that ought to be thrown at you all for consideration.
1. At the top of the list is.... a NEW RIDE!I'd say the off season is just another way of telling you it maybe the right time to search out that future Saturday night head turner. Times are tough, storage can be expensive. It's a buyers market. Heck, even at Barrett - Jackson I've seen some of the prices down.If you are already in the old car hobby? You know where to look for a future cool cruiser. Get out there and begin your search.
2. A REBUILD! Is your ride producing an oil spot on the garage floor? Or is it just not hookin' up or cruising the way it used to? Now is the time to begin the fixin' and or rebuildin' of the "Mill". It's just plain a good idea to have the mechanics close to perfect for the coming season.
3. CHECK & RE-PLACE things. I'm the one that would be replacing the U-joints every winter and doing a flush and fill on the rear end, the trans, and the radiator. I usually even flush and re-fill the power steering. This might be a time to give the belts, hoses, and clamps a careful inspection. Even if you don't drive it like you stole it. Besides, the parts suppliers and shops have more deals on their stuff during the off season. The machine shops are down some during the off racing season, too. A suggestion. I always take the time to make all of my drain plugs into a magnet. Then when I drain the oil or trans fluid (on cars that have a drain plug), I can look for metal shavings that may give me some warning that things may be a developing into a problem on the inside.
4. BRAKE FLUIDS are next. I like silicone brake fluid because it doesn't accept moisture. It is more expensive, but so is a brake failure. I do realize that many of you are happy with the correct DOT numbers of regular fluid. Be careful to know the one that will work with your ABS brakes or old school drum brakes. Just make it fresh. If you aren't able to do the bleeding out and replacing of the fluid of the whole system..... read on please. Here's what I've done and it isn't a complete flush, but its worth doing as opposed to nothing. Grab a turkey baster, remove the master cylinder cap, and suck out as much fluid as you can being CAREFUL to not get it so low that the system can suck any air. Pour in the fresh fluid, & replace the cover. Go press the brakes a few times to re-stir the old fluid with the fresh fluid. If you have power brakes you may have to start the car to do this more easily. You can re-do that as many times as you have the patience for, After a few times, the fluid will clearly look like much fresher fluid. Its not perfect, but it's better than it was .
5. More on FLUIDS. This is the time to drop the fuel tank and go get a can of that gas tank sealer( I like Bill Hirsch's stuff) that will forever prevent rust from forming inside the tank.Also, then you can paint the exterior of the tank with a no rust sealer type paint.
6. Next:..... WIRING ! Check out every light, maybe remove the bulbs, and wipe on some grease or Vaseline before you re-install them. Maybe, give a check to the plug wires to see if they have been getting too hot because they are close to your headers. If your car was re-wired or built from a kit? Be sure to wiggle the fittings at just about every place they are either bolted on to a gauge or pass through the dash and/ or firewall.
7. The next chore might be what I call "SERIOUS CLEANING & DETAILING !. And Yes. I do realize some of us are not as obsessive and compulsive as others. But please read on. I like to remove my bumpers and if they are original or not? I will clean the inside of them and maybe even gingerly wire brush or sand them. Then, I'll give them some kind of no rust paint or rattle can clear coat. This will keep any rust from forming on the inside of your ride's bumpers.. I also go to the trouble to replace every bumper to frame bolt with a grade 5 stainless steel one, including the nut and washer. This makes it really easy to remove at any time in the future.
8. Next is a variation of the above "SERIOUS CLEANING & FIXIN' II ! First, we'll cover the interior of your old car. The off season is a nice time to remove the carpet or rubber floor mat and use a no rust paint(miracle paint) on the floor pans and if you feel the need at that time? You can install some of that foil covered sound deadening / insulation before re-installing the carpet. Next. inside. If that driver's window has been hard to roll or power up? Maybe now is the time to remove the door panel and re-adjust and/ or fix or replace the nuts and bolts or regulator. That way, next season you won't have to open your door and holler out your order to the drive- thru kid for a large fries and a Billy Bob's Bacon double hamburger.An FYI here. If you have interior loose nuts reoccurring. I use the semi-permament motorcycle bolt and nut bonding paste. Do not use the permanent stuff.
9. Next up. HINTS !If you have a birthday, you could. give out hints of stuff you may have a need for to the people that would be blessing you with a gift on that day. It has been my experience, that lots of times the little woman doesn't instinctively embrace buying you a floor jack or a set of those ratchet box end wrenches. Maybe, you could hand her a pile of the subscription cards to the car magazines you'd like to receive, being sure to put the renewal for AUTO ROUND-UP on top of the pile.
10. Lastly. The SHORT LIST ?1. If you have an old time ignition points car? Maybe it's time to install one of those no points systems. 2. SHOCKS . The old hydraulic tube type ones only last maybe 20000 miles.3. MUFFLERS. Maybe ya' wanna' try a different set to get a louder or a quieter sound for your ride.4. RIMS and TIRES. Maybe it's time for the change from blacks to wide whites or a change to radial from bias ply's Maybe different accessory hub caps, mags, or up grade to factory wires.
The list can be endless.Be sure your ride is safe and ready for a fun time next season. Harv and I wish you all the very best this next year.
SCOOTER
scooter4422@msn.com
For more articles like this, visit http://www.auto-roundup.com/
1. At the top of the list is.... a NEW RIDE!I'd say the off season is just another way of telling you it maybe the right time to search out that future Saturday night head turner. Times are tough, storage can be expensive. It's a buyers market. Heck, even at Barrett - Jackson I've seen some of the prices down.If you are already in the old car hobby? You know where to look for a future cool cruiser. Get out there and begin your search.
2. A REBUILD! Is your ride producing an oil spot on the garage floor? Or is it just not hookin' up or cruising the way it used to? Now is the time to begin the fixin' and or rebuildin' of the "Mill". It's just plain a good idea to have the mechanics close to perfect for the coming season.
3. CHECK & RE-PLACE things. I'm the one that would be replacing the U-joints every winter and doing a flush and fill on the rear end, the trans, and the radiator. I usually even flush and re-fill the power steering. This might be a time to give the belts, hoses, and clamps a careful inspection. Even if you don't drive it like you stole it. Besides, the parts suppliers and shops have more deals on their stuff during the off season. The machine shops are down some during the off racing season, too. A suggestion. I always take the time to make all of my drain plugs into a magnet. Then when I drain the oil or trans fluid (on cars that have a drain plug), I can look for metal shavings that may give me some warning that things may be a developing into a problem on the inside.
4. BRAKE FLUIDS are next. I like silicone brake fluid because it doesn't accept moisture. It is more expensive, but so is a brake failure. I do realize that many of you are happy with the correct DOT numbers of regular fluid. Be careful to know the one that will work with your ABS brakes or old school drum brakes. Just make it fresh. If you aren't able to do the bleeding out and replacing of the fluid of the whole system..... read on please. Here's what I've done and it isn't a complete flush, but its worth doing as opposed to nothing. Grab a turkey baster, remove the master cylinder cap, and suck out as much fluid as you can being CAREFUL to not get it so low that the system can suck any air. Pour in the fresh fluid, & replace the cover. Go press the brakes a few times to re-stir the old fluid with the fresh fluid. If you have power brakes you may have to start the car to do this more easily. You can re-do that as many times as you have the patience for, After a few times, the fluid will clearly look like much fresher fluid. Its not perfect, but it's better than it was .
5. More on FLUIDS. This is the time to drop the fuel tank and go get a can of that gas tank sealer( I like Bill Hirsch's stuff) that will forever prevent rust from forming inside the tank.Also, then you can paint the exterior of the tank with a no rust sealer type paint.
6. Next:..... WIRING ! Check out every light, maybe remove the bulbs, and wipe on some grease or Vaseline before you re-install them. Maybe, give a check to the plug wires to see if they have been getting too hot because they are close to your headers. If your car was re-wired or built from a kit? Be sure to wiggle the fittings at just about every place they are either bolted on to a gauge or pass through the dash and/ or firewall.
7. The next chore might be what I call "SERIOUS CLEANING & DETAILING !. And Yes. I do realize some of us are not as obsessive and compulsive as others. But please read on. I like to remove my bumpers and if they are original or not? I will clean the inside of them and maybe even gingerly wire brush or sand them. Then, I'll give them some kind of no rust paint or rattle can clear coat. This will keep any rust from forming on the inside of your ride's bumpers.. I also go to the trouble to replace every bumper to frame bolt with a grade 5 stainless steel one, including the nut and washer. This makes it really easy to remove at any time in the future.
8. Next is a variation of the above "SERIOUS CLEANING & FIXIN' II ! First, we'll cover the interior of your old car. The off season is a nice time to remove the carpet or rubber floor mat and use a no rust paint(miracle paint) on the floor pans and if you feel the need at that time? You can install some of that foil covered sound deadening / insulation before re-installing the carpet. Next. inside. If that driver's window has been hard to roll or power up? Maybe now is the time to remove the door panel and re-adjust and/ or fix or replace the nuts and bolts or regulator. That way, next season you won't have to open your door and holler out your order to the drive- thru kid for a large fries and a Billy Bob's Bacon double hamburger.An FYI here. If you have interior loose nuts reoccurring. I use the semi-permament motorcycle bolt and nut bonding paste. Do not use the permanent stuff.
9. Next up. HINTS !If you have a birthday, you could. give out hints of stuff you may have a need for to the people that would be blessing you with a gift on that day. It has been my experience, that lots of times the little woman doesn't instinctively embrace buying you a floor jack or a set of those ratchet box end wrenches. Maybe, you could hand her a pile of the subscription cards to the car magazines you'd like to receive, being sure to put the renewal for AUTO ROUND-UP on top of the pile.
10. Lastly. The SHORT LIST ?1. If you have an old time ignition points car? Maybe it's time to install one of those no points systems. 2. SHOCKS . The old hydraulic tube type ones only last maybe 20000 miles.3. MUFFLERS. Maybe ya' wanna' try a different set to get a louder or a quieter sound for your ride.4. RIMS and TIRES. Maybe it's time for the change from blacks to wide whites or a change to radial from bias ply's Maybe different accessory hub caps, mags, or up grade to factory wires.
The list can be endless.Be sure your ride is safe and ready for a fun time next season. Harv and I wish you all the very best this next year.
SCOOTER
scooter4422@msn.com
For more articles like this, visit http://www.auto-roundup.com/
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